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With regular bus services to the three big sites of northern Estremadura - Alcobaça, Batalha and Fátima - LEIRIA makes a handy centre for excursions. The chief sight in Leiria itself is the Castle, incorporating an elegant royal palace with a magnificent balcony high above the River Lis. At the heart of the old town, Praça Rodrigues Lobo is surrounded by beautiful buildings and arcades. The tourist office and bus station are on opposite sides of a park overlooking the river in the modern city centre. The train station is about 4 kilometers out of town with a connecting bus service. For accommodation, check the pensions such as Pensão Berlinga, Rua Miguel Bombarda 3D and restaurants (some offering rooms) around Praça Rodrigues Lobo and on narrow side streets such as Rua Mestre Aviz and Rua Miguel Bombarda. There's also a fancy hostel with a good atmosphere at Largo Cândido dos Reis 9. As for restaurants, try the seafood at Jardim by the tourist office or real Portuguese cuisine - slightly more expensive but worth it for the large portions at Montecarlo.