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From its high plateau, VISEU surveys the country around with the air of a feudal overlord and indeed this dignified little city is capital of all it can see. Its medieval heart has changed little though the approach to it is now through the broad avenues of a prosperous provincial centre: parts of the walls survive and it's within their circuit breached by two doughty gateways that almost everything of interest lays. Surrounded by vineyards, orchards and pine-forests Viseu has been a northern crossroads since the time of the Romans who chose its site for a military camp the largest yet to be discovered in Portugal. Today, its main importance is as the centre of the Dão wine-growing region, where crispy white wines and some of Portugal's most popular full-bodied reds are produced.
At the city's highest point is the huge Praça da Sé, the paved square in front of the cathedral, best approached from the central Rossío through the Porta do Soar. Here, a mid a line of granite buildings stand the white Baroque facade of the Igreja da Misericórdia and the Cathedral a weighty twin-towered Romanesque base on which a succession of generations have made their mark. Behind its twin-towered façade lies an elegantly simple Gothic interior featuring a two-storey cloister and fine azulejo glazed tiles in the north chapel. The sacristy boasts one of the finest ceilings in Portugal. Its Renaissance cloister is one of the most graceful in the country while the rooms of its upper level looking out over the tangled roofs of the oldest part of the town house the cathedral's treasures which include a twelfth-century Bible. The greatest treasure of Viseu though is the adjacent Museu Grão Vasco. Vasco Fernandes - known always as Grão Vasco, the Great Vasco - was the key figure in school of Flemish-influenced painters which flourished here in the first half of the sixteenth century. The centre piece of the collection is his masterly St. Peter on his Throne.
